Restaurant review: Pete’s Seafood Restaurant in Greenfield

The original fish market storefront serves as the space in which patrons order their meals; a small bar occupies a back corner.

When Peter and Sandy Ruggeri opened Pete’s Fish Market back in 1985, they probably had little idea that what they’d conceived of as a retail venture would eventually morph into one of Greenfield’s most popular casual dining spots.

Added onto over the years, Pete’s School Street location sprawls across two adjacent buildings. The original fish market storefront serves as the space in which patrons order their meals; a small bar occupies a back corner.

A much larger, two-level dining area is located next door. Seating is utilitarian (a picnic table or two figures into the mix), and the walls are decorated with an assortment of nautically themed art.

A sunny, sheltered courtyard is available for those Indian Summer afternoons when al fresco dining is still an appealing alternative.

Not surprisingly the menu at Pete’s is focused on seafood; the kitchen’s repertoire is resolutely “clam-shack classic.”

Fried favorites such as haddock, clam strips, scallops, oysters, and shrimp can be enjoyed as “rolls,” “boats” (with fries), or as “dinners” (fries and slaw). Prices range from $4.99 for a Clam Roll to $17.50 for a Scallop Dinner; some items, like lobster, are priced on a “market” basis.

The restaurant offers a Lobster Roll ($17.99) as well as a Grilled Swordfish Sandwich ($12.99), and their Salmon Burger ($7.49) comes in teriyaki or tomato-basil variations.

Those not in the mood to enjoy fish are accommodated with grilled chicken sandwiches like a Buffalo style with Fries ($8.49). Pete’s also prepared a selection of “Wild” burgers that also go for $8.49.

We began our Pete’s Dinner with a cup of Clam Chowder ($2.99). A credible enough effort, we decided, with a creamy texture and subtle onion presence. Plenty of diced potatoes and minced clams gave the soup body, but we would have enjoyed a bit more briny brightness in the flavor department.

A Crab Cake ($2.50) was equally satisfying. Golden crusted and generously sized, the cake had a reasonable proportion of crabmeat to breadcrumb binder. Its spice profile landed somewhere near the mild end of that particular spectrum.

A Fried Haddock Boat ($8.49) is the fish-and-chips option at Pete’s. The single filet portion was large enough to satisfy, and its golden brown, tender-crisp crust made a pleasant contrast to the moist haddock within.

French fries at Pete’s are of the old-fashioned, no-coating variety and thus deliver unsullied fried-potato satisfaction.

As the demand for clams has put pressure on a limited supply, whole-belly clams have become quite the delicacy, so most places now only offer them as a “market priced” option. That’s the case at Pete’s; our Whole-belly Clam Dinner was pegged at $20.99 the evening we stopped by.

The clams were worth the tariff, we decided. The portion was more than adequate, and the whole bivalves were breaded just enough to give them a bit of contrasting crunch. Like all the fried items at Pete’s, they’d been prepared using fresh fryer shortening, an operating practice that ensure the food doesn’t pick up “off” flavors from overused oil.

Dinners at Pete’s include, along with fries, a side of fresh coleslaw.

Our third entree, a Scallop Roll ($6.25), featured a half dozen deep-fried scallops spilling out of a butter-grilled hot dog; fries were included in the price. “Simple but satisfying” best summed up our assessment.

Pete’s is licensed for the sale of beer and wine and maintains a selection of mass-market and craft brews. The house also stocks individual-serving bottles of generic varietals along with a selection of soft drinks and bottled juices.

Dessert options at the restaurant are limited to packaged Cookies ($1.50) and Brownies ($2.50).

In addition to deep-fried seafood, Pete’s prepares a number of pasta-based alternatives. The selection varies from day to day but is likely to include choices such as Lobster Mac & Cheese ($12.99)

The restaurant maintains a weekly calendar of specials, which includes a Tuesday all-you-care-to-eat Clam Strips and Fries ($8.49), a $7.99 Shrimp Dinner on Wednesdays, and a Friday Haddock Boat ($7.25).

Name: Pete’s Seafood Restaurant
Address: 54 School Street, Greenfield
Telephone: (413) 772-2153
Website: petesseafood.com
Hours: Tuesday through Thursday 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Friday 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible; rest rooms up one flight
Reservations: Not taken

Restaurant review: Bombay Royale in Northampton

A dazzling array of listings is featured on Bombay Royale’s menu.

Most Indian restaurant here in the Pioneer Valley are cautious, serving a predictable range of offerings simplified for American tastes. Not so at Bombay Royale in Northampton, a South Asian eatery that opened in Northampton earlier this year. Its fidelity to Indian culinary tradition makes it one of the region’s best such dining establishments.

A dazzling array of listings is featured on Bombay Royale’s menu. Many of the Indian restaurant standards make an appearance – Aloo Gobi ($12), Chicken Tikka Masala ($15), Lamb Vindaloo ($16), and Sheek Kebab ($18), and we suspect they’re executed skillfully executed.

It’s the less conventional items that make Bombay Royale noteworthy. The restaurant offers choices like Lamb Chettinadu ($16) that’s prepared in a black pepper and roasted coconut sauce, Malabar Goat Curry ($16), cashew-paste-marinated Shrimp Malai Kebab ($20), and Fish in Banana Leaf ($24).

Vegans and vegetarians each have their own sections on the menu, with the former describing the likes of Lassoni Gobi (batter-fried cauliflower – $14) and Coconut Mushrooms ($12). Vegetarian selections range from Palak (Spinach) Paneer ($13) to Malai Kofta (cheese dumplings in almond cashew cream – $13).

Appetizer selections at Bombay Royale also transcend the often mundane. In addition to the likes of Masala Dosa ($8) and Vegetable Samosa ($5), patrons can indulge in Kalmi Kebab (Indian spiced wings — $6) and spicy Calamari Cochin ($7).

An order of three Kheema Samosa (lamb-stuffed pastries — $5) had a spicy complexity to their ground lamb-potato filling. We guessed that cinnamon and cardamom both played a role in their flavor architecture.

We’re not particularly enamored of eggplant in any form, but the Tamarind Eggplant ($7) starter we ordered won us over. Thin, fried-crisp slices of eggplant had been topped with chickpeas, yogurt, and fried onion. Finely chopped fresh mint and a complexly flavorful tamarind sauce finished off a dish that was so tasty that we could hardly stop eating it.

Though Bhelpuri ($5) looked like little more that a mound of puffed rice cereal, it proved to be one of the most enjoyable parts of our Bombay Royale experience. Light and savory, the rice had been generously drizzled with flavor-packed two chutneys – mint and tamarind.

Chicken Korma ($15) is a dish that’s typically found on Indian restaurant menus but rarely reflects the finesse that characterized Bombay Royale’s version. Lush and creamy, with subtle ginger and garlic notes enlivening its cashew “gravy,” the korma delivered satisfaction in every forkful.

Shrimp Biriyani ($18) is a North Indian specialty that’s also common fodder, but Bombay Royale transforms this fried rice variant into something extraordinary. Decked out with authentic spaces and herbs, it’s a taste bud experience that’s sure to live in memory.

Feeling a bit adventurous, we opted to try Meen Molee ($24), one of the restaurant’s “plated specials.”

Chunks of salmon in a turmeric-coconut sauce, the dish had a boldness of flavor that might not be to everyone’s liking, but the dish deserves high marks for originality. A vegetable biryani side, an interesting house salad of sprouts and microgreens, and several pieces of garlic naan (tandoori flatbread) completed the presentation.

Bombay Royale isn’t licensed, so its beverage selections are limited to tea, soft drinks, and an assortment of Indian thirst-quenchers. The house is, however, BYOB-friendly.

Dessert choices at Bombay Royale were the traditional favorites we’ve seen elsewhere – Kheer, Gukab Jamun, and Mango Kulfi (all $4), for example – but executed with more finesse.

Rasmalai ($4) was three cheesecake-like patties served in a condensed milk sauce laced with a delicate caramel flavor. A garnish of chopped pistachios added complementary texture.

As is customary for Indian restaurants, Bombay Royale offers a luncheon buffet that is priced at $9.95 on weekdays. The weekend version, which is somewhat more elaborate, goes for $13.95.

Name: Bombay Royale
Address: 52 Crafts Avenue (Roundhouse Plaza), Northampton
Telephone: (413) 341-3537
Website: bombayroyale.com
Hours: Tuesday through Thursday, 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Friday; and Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.; and Sunday, 5 to 9:30 p.m. Lunch is served Tuesday through Friday, noon to 2:30 p.m.; and Saturday and Sunday, noon to 3 p.m.
Entree prices: $12 – $25
Credit cards: Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible, with restrooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Accepted

Restaurant review: Michael’s Pasta in the Pan in Wilbraham

The menu at Michael’s features pasta dishes inspired by both Italian and contemporary American ideas about food.

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Presenting meals “in the pan” is certainly a clever gimmick; it’s a service strategy that Michael’s Pasta in the Pan, an eatery on Boston Road in Wilbraham, has successfully employed for a number of years.

The menu at Michael’s features pasta dishes inspired by both Italian and contemporary American ideas about food.

The Old World influence is visible in dishes such as Baked Ziti ($14.95), Pan-fried Chicken Parmigiana ($18.95), Steak Tips Marsala ($19.95), and Seafood Fra Diavolo ($26.95).

A more contemporary perspective manifests itself in the likes of Spicy Chicken Mississippi ($18.95), with its jalapeno cream sauce, and Teriyaki Alfredo ($18.95), a dish in which the lushness of Alfredo joins forces with the savory sweetness of teriyaki.

Starter options at Michael’s include Fried Mozzarella Sticks ($6.95), Artichoke Franchaise ($10.95), and Zuppa de Clams ($10.95)

We began our dinner with an order of Michael’s Spicy Golden Fried Calamari ($13.95), one of the restaurant’s signature specialties.

Presented in the hallmark commercial saute pan, the calamari were a tropical-themed twist on the “Point Judith” style that’s become popular over the last few years.

The squid was lightly battered and pan-fried to crispy golden brown, and the portion was certainly generous. Garnished with bits of red bell pepper and minced parsley, the calamari was glazed with a sauce in which orange marmalade seemed to be playing a big part. Bits of jalapeno pepper delivered the requisite heat, but the overall profile of the dish was, in our opinion, a little too sweet to be an entirely successful starter.

Blackened Sea Scallop Teriyaki Alfredo ($22.95), another house specialty, represented a tasty convergence of flavors.

Al dente penne had been simmered in a cream sauce into which a splash or two of teriyaki had been introduced. A sprinkle of crushed red pepper added heat, while chopped fresh spinach contributed color and freshness.

A half dozen Cajun-spice-dredged, pan-blackened sea scallops topped off the pasta.

Our second entree selection, Michael’s Mac & Cheese ($17.95), turned out to be considerably different than we’d anticipated. Instead of the gloriously gooey experience we associate with mac ‘n’ cheese, we got rigatoni pasta dolled up with onion, diced fresh tomato, and thin-sliced prosciutto, all of which had been tossed together in a thin cheese sauce.

Topped with breadcrumbs and briefly broiled, the pasta wasn’t flawed, it’s fair to note. It just wasn’t we’d hoped for.

One aspect of the “served-in-the-pan” idea deserves special mention; food comes to the table piping hot. Those who wish, however, can specify that their meal be served on a plate in traditional fashion.

Entree choices at Michael’s are accompanied by a salad, a serviceable blend of field greens enhanced with radicchio and escarole. Oven-fresh rolls with herbed oil and butter are also included.

Michael’s Pasta in the Pan has a full bar setup as well as a wine list of about two dozen reasonably priced labels.

For dessert, the restaurant maintains a tray of fancy pastries; choices typically include several tortes and cheesecake variations.

We enjoyed a Chocolate Dipped Cannoli ($3.95), appreciating its pleasantly creamy, chocolate-bit-enhanced filling.

The Chocolate-Hazelnut Cake ($6.95) was a more elaborate affair, with gianduja (chocolate-hazelnut cream) and pastry cream sandwiched between nut-flour sponge cake layers. Definitely a two-cup-of-coffee dessert experience, we decided.

Michael’s Pasta in the Pan also offers pizza, both in create-your-own and specialty formats.

Choosing the latter, we settled on a “Goodfellas” ($14.95), a red-sauced pie topped with sausage, pepperoni, hamburger, and prosciutto. Great crust, great pizza, we agreed, but the prosciutto garnish was a little too assertive; we’d leave it out if ordering the pie again.

Michael’s Wilbraham location is a handsome space, with a casual ambiance that’s nonetheless swanky enough for a special evening out. Though the outdoor dining season is almost over, the restaurant does offer attractive terrace seating.

Michael’s Pasta in the Pan operates a second restaurant serving a similar menu on River Road in Agawam.

Name: Michael’s Pasta in the Pan
Address: 2133 Boston Road, North Wilbraham
Telephone: (413) 271-1084
Website: michaelspasta.com
Hours: Dinner served Monday through Thursday 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Lunch served Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; closed Sunday
Entree prices: $14.95 – $26.95
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible, rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Accepted

Steaming Tender hailed as unique Massachusetts dining spot

The restaurant’s building once served as Palmer’s Union Station and still has plenty of railroad traffic rumbling by.

Steaming Tender’s designation as “one of the most unique dining spots in Massachusetts.”

Vo-owner Robin Lamothe says the Palmer restaurant’s accolade came from the website Only in Your State (onlyinyourstate.com) and focuses on Steaming Tender’s heroic architecture along with its trackside location.

“This place serves classic New England dishes inside an authentic, restored, 19th-century Romanesque train station. Whether you’re a life-long train enthusiast, or just want to experience something a little out of the ordinary, Steaming Tender should definitely be a stop on your itinerary, according to the website.

The restaurant’s building once served as Palmer’s Union Station and still has plenty of railroad traffic rumbling by.

Steaming Tender’s railroad-themed premises even includes an authentic 1890s parlor car that can be rented out for private parties.

More information about Steaming Tender Restaurant in Palmer, which is located on Depot Street, can be found at their website, steamingtender.com.

Their telephone number is (413-283-2744.

Restaurant review: Texas Roadhouse in Hadley

The chain’s Hadley restaurant, located on Route 9, reflects the chain’s in-your-face country-western personality.

Big, bold, and brash is the agenda at Texas Roadhouse, the Louisville, Kentucky-based casual dining brand.

The chain’s Hadley restaurant, located on Route 9, reflects the chain’s in-your-face country-western personality, from the rustic “pine-board” decor to the plaintive country ballads that play in the background.

The menu at Texas Roadhouse is all about red-meat enjoyment. The chain prides itself on the hand cut steaks and slow cooked ribs that represent its signature offerings.

Steak choices include four sizes of USDA Choice Sirloin as well as a Dallas Filet ($20.99) and a Bone-In Ribeye ($25.99). Prime Rib ($22.99) is available, as is a cheese-and-onion-topped chopped steak that’s mischievously labeled “Roadkill” ($10.49)

Other options Texas Roadhouse makes available range from Portobello Mushroom Chicken ($11.99) and Grilled Pork Chops ($10.49) to Fish & Chips ($11.99) and Grilled Salmon ($14.99).

Burgers, salad plates, and several sandwich variations complete the lineup.

Starters are of the hearty sort. Fried Pickles ($4.99) are featured, as are Boneless Buffalo Wings ($8.99) and Rattlesnake Bites (cheese-stuffed jalapeno nuggets — $5.99).

We began our dinner by sharing a Cactus Blossom ($5.99), the restaurant’s version of a pull-apart onion appetizer. More than enough to share, the batter-dipped, deep-fried onion came with a horseradish dipping sauce ginned up with a dash of Cajun spice.

Texas Red Chili ($2.99) is another agreeable possibility. Heavy on the chili powder, a characteristic that gave the “Texas Red” a distinctive cumin kick, the chili was served topped with grated cheese and diced red onion.

From the eatery’s steak repertoire, we settled on two favorites. A Ft. Worth Ribeye ($18.99 for a 12-ounce cut) was cooked as we’d specified; its beef flavor only lightly “enhanced” by a proprietary brush-on. The New York Strip ($18.99) was equally to our liking; both steaks had been grilled, rather than being “charbroiled,” the latter a technique that too often translates as “burnt and slightly bitter.”

Steaks at Texas Roadhouse can be “smothered,” for an additional $1.99, with any combination of mushrooms, onions, Jack cheese, and brown gravy. We opted to enhance our red meat moment with the mushrooms and were pleased to find they’d been simply prepared – butter, some salt and pepper, and a whisper of garlic.

Roadhouse’s “Fall-off-the-Bone” Ribs ($14.99 for a half slab) were also agreeable enough, with a low-key smoky flavor and barbecue sauce brush-on that contributed suggestions of caramel and molasses.

The same sauce dressed up the BBQ Roasted Half Chicken ($10.99) we enjoyed, the sauce enhancing the pleasantly moist poultry.

Main course selections come with a choice of two sides picked from a roster of a dozen options. Based on our experience, the house does a great job with salad, whether one opts for the “house” or “Caesar” variations. Baked potatoes, whether white or sweet, are freshly prepared and generously buttered.

The seasoned rice, however, is just like grandma used to make — assuming she wasn’t a very good cook. Flecked with green pepper and flavored with brown gravy, the rice was mushy and overly salted.

Meals come with a basket of dinner rolls and cinnamon butter is provided to slather onto them.

Beverage options at Texas Roadhouse include a dozen beers, six mass-market wines, and various margarita variations. Soft drinks, iced tea, and flavored lemonades are available as well.

Picking from the trio of desserts Texas Roadhouse promotes, we decided to share Granny’s Apple Classic ($5.99).

“Big” is the adjective of choice to describe Roadhouse desserts. Our “Classic” proved to be a whole quarter of an apple pie mounded with vanilla ice cream and dark caramel sauce. The dessert was enjoyable but had nothing remarkable about it beyond its size.

Other dessert possibilities include a “Big Ole” Brownie and Strawberry Cheesecake (both $5.99).

Texas Roadhouse offers an early dine menu that features 11 entrees such as sirloin steak, pulled pork, and country fried chicken. Days and times vary by location, but at the Hadley restaurant the “early dine” deal is available until 6 p.m.

Name: Texas Roadhouse
Address: 280 Russell Street, Hadley
Telephone: (413) 584-0100
Website: texasroadhouse.com
Hours: Monday through Thursday 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday 4 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday noon to 11 p.m.; Sunday noon to 10 p.m.
Entree prices: $9.49 – $26.99
Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible, with restrooms equipped for wheelchair use
Reservations: Call-ahead seating

Restaurant review: Kobe Hibachi Sushi and Bar in Greenfield

The sushi bar at the back of the restaurant specializes in a typical assortment of nigiri and sashimi favorites.

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At a time when most Far Eastern restaurants are taking a menu-expansion approach to the choices they offer, Kobe Hibachi Sushi and Bar in Greenfield is pursuing a more focused strategy.

Housed in a repurposed coffee shop chain location at the foot of the Mohawk Trail, Kobe is a specialist, limiting its offerings to sushi and teppanyaki cookery.

The restaurant itself is spacious; a large rectangular bar greets patrons as they enter. Off to one side are a half dozen grill-equipped tables; a separate dining room for those not interested in hibachi is also available. The decor is nondescript, with a few examples of East Asian artwork setting the mood.

Nearly a dozen hibachi possibilities are described on the menu. These range from a teppanyaki preparation of assorted veggie ($14.55) to a top-of-the-line “Land & Sea” ($27.55) that features shrimp, scallops, steak, and chicken. Other grilled-to-order selections feature Calamari ($16.55), Red Snapper ($17.55), and Steak ($19.55).

The sushi bar at the back of the restaurant specializes in a typical assortment of nigiri and sashimi favorites – Ebi (shrimp — $4.25), Saba (mackerel — $4.75), and Maguro (tuna– $5.25), to name a few.

Maki choices include the commonplace (California Roll –$5.25) as well as a few more creative options, such as the Fashion Roll ($6.25) that brings together grilled eel, avocado, cream cheese, and flying fish roe.

Rounding out the restaurant’s offerings are several Udon (wheat noodle selections) as well as a customizable “Chef’s Special” in which diners specify meat, tofu, or seafood in one of four sauces.

Among the “Kitchen Appetizers” at Kobe can be found everything from a Spring Roll ($3) and Seasoned French Fries ($3.50) to a Pu Pu Platter ($16.95).

To begin we chose an order of steamed Gyoza ($5.25). Simply but dramatically arranged around a small black bowl of sauce, the eight half-moon-shaped dumplings had a pleasing chewy exterior and a pork-based filling flavored with ginger and garlic.

Our second starter selection, Crab Rangoon ($5.95) were similarly presented, the eight crunchy packets surrounding a dish of duck sauce. Biting into the deep-fried wonton crust released a burst of seasoned cream cheese filling.

A bit more decorative effort was put into the maki we ordered. Our Crazy Roll ($9.95) arrived with greenery tucked under it, while the roll itself feature tempura shrimp wrapped up with avocado, “crab” stick, and julienned cucumber. A generous drizzle of spiced-up mayonnaise did, indeed, lend a measure of “crazy” to the proceedings.

“Sizzling plates” are the restaurant’s entree surrogate for those not inclined to indulge in a hibachi chef’s tableside tomfoolery.

The Scallop Sizzling Plate ($14.95) we decided on was a tasty-looking piece of work. Served on a cast-iron sizzle platter, the dish came to the table sputtering and hissing, a teriyaki glaze lending it flavor and shine.

Carrots, broccoli, zucchini, and summer squash dominated, while scallops sliced in half crosswise served as focal point. Likeable enough, we decided, but not particularly memorable.

The visual artistry that’s characteristic of traditional Japanese cuisine was a big part of the Chirashi Dinner ($16.95) that we enjoyed. An assortment of a half-dozen varieties of sashimi (raw fish) arranged into a colorful abstract, the plate also include a scoop of sushi rice.

Portioned out into the traditional lacquered tray, our Shrimp Tempura Bento Box ($11.95) incorporated five different elements. In addition to the namesake panko-crusted shrimp, the box included fried rice, four pieces of California roll, and some shrimp shumai. All were competently prepared and attractively presented.

Sushi bar entrees at Kobe come with a simple green salad and miso soup. The salad, we observed, had a particularly tasty version of pickled ginger dressing, while the miso soup soothed with its understated miso flavor.

As is customary for restaurants serving East Asian fare, Kobe offers an array of budget-friendly luncheon specials with prices starting at $6.99.

Name: Kobe Hibachi Sushi and Bar
Address: 254 Mohawk Trail, Greenfield
Telephone: (413) 772-8888
Website: kobemass.com
Hours: Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday noon to 9:30 p.m.
Entree prices: $ 7.95 – $27.95
Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Accepted